Tips and Stuff Pets 2

Housing
Proper, adequate housing is a major concern in the care of healthy mice and rats. The social well-being of the animals must be the primary consideration. Mice and rats can be housed in cages of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic or glass. Glass is the most recommended because it resist corrosion. Wood enclosures must not be used as these types of cages are difficult to clean and cannot withstand the destructive gnawing of the rodents. The enclosure must ve escape-proof.
The enclosure must be roomy enough to allow the resident(s) to pursue their rnormal activities. A hiding spot to ensure privacy must be provided as well as exercise wheels to maintain your pets physical and mental health. Rats tend to be burrowers and enjoy hiding under things for long periods of time.
Cages should be easy to clean and be well ventilated and lighted. Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood shavings and processed corn-cob are the best types of bedding materials. Pet mice and rats seem most comfortable when they are kept away from excessive noise, confusion and needless excitement. Sudden environmental temperature changes must also be avoided, pet rodents do not tolerate them well.
Be careful housing more than one mouse together in a cage. Mice can be very aggressive towards one another. Males, in particular, are likely to fight, so it is wise to always house male mice separately. Female mice rarely fight unless they are defending their nests.
Rats are more communal and, unlike mice, several males and females may be kept in the same cage, provided that there is enough space. Nursing females may fight among themselves and males may occasionally bother the young but it is generally infrequent.

Cleaning
Enclosures and all cage "furniture" must be cleaned and disinfected weekly. The food and water containers must be cleaned and disinfected daily. have more than one set of containers, the dirty ones can be washed in a dishwasher.
A good scrubbing of the enclosure and "furniture" with hot soapy water and a thorough rinsing must be followed by the use of a disinfectant.

Feeding
Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be available to you pet rodent at all times. Rodent food (milled pellets or blocks) are preferred. These foods are readily available pet shops. Kibble-type kitten food can be given. Seeds and nuts are not recommended because they contain too many fats and oils and do not provide adequate protein levels.
Table scraps and alternative foods can be offered to pet mice and rats but these must be limited to healthful items (whole protein sources such as chicken or tuna) and must not exceed 15 percent of what the pet eats on a daily basis. If the proper feeding recommendations are followed, malnutrition and malnutrition-related problems will be very unlikely among pet rodents. Vitamin or vitamin and mineral preparations and salt blocks (licks) are generally unnecessary.
Water is most easily made available by providing it in water bottles equipped with "sipper" tubes. The tubes themselves can become clogged with food debris so they must be cleaned daily. The dispensing end of the tube must be accessible to the smallest rodent within the cage. Both mice and rats tend to feed at night, although day-time feeding among both is quite common. Health
Strict quarantine of all new rodents purchased, for at least four weeks, will greatly reduce the chance of disease among pet mice and rats. This is especially important for pet rodents because of the severity of certain diseases that they may have without showing signs of illness.
Rats and mice are especially sensitive to the irritating effects from exposure to ammonia. This chemical builds up quickly in the bedding from the urine excreted by pet mice and rats. Bedding changes must be made two to three times each week. Adequate ventilation is extremely important in reducing the irritating effects of ammonia on pet rodents.

Obesity is more often a problem of pet rats than mice. Overindulgent pet owners and the feeding of diets rich in seeds and nuts are often responsible for this condition. Owners should resist the temptation to feed "junk food" such as french fries, cookies and candy. Commercial diets specifically designed for rats are always preferred and can be supplemented with whole wheat bread, dry cereal, pasta, fruits, and vegetables.
Overgrown Incisors. The incisor (front, gnawing) teeth of all rodents and rabbits grow continuously for the life of the individual. The constant use of these teeth by these animals and the continual wear between the uppers and lowers usually prevents overgrowth of the teeth. Hereditary abnormalities of the jaw bones or teeth, in malocclusion (improper meeting of the upper and lower incisors). Malocclusion, in turn, results in overgrowth of one or more of the incisors with subsequent injury to the mouth. Mice and rats with this problem must have their overgrown incisors trimmed periodically by an experienced veterinarian or veterinary technician. Mice and rats are very susceptible to the formation of tumors. Rats over two years of age are very susceptible. You must seek veterinary attention at once if you discover an external lump or bump or unusual tissue protruding from a body opening. Tumors tend to grow continuously larger and may ulcerate and become infected if they reach very large sizes. For this reason, it is always best have them removed when they are small in size.
Pet mice and rats may be the hosts for a variety of external parasites. Mites, nearly microscopic, spider-like organisms, live on the skin surface and feed primarily on skin debris. They are transmitted by direct contact between infested and uninfected rodents. Signs of infestation range from mild scratching to severe scratching with hair loss and ulceration of the skin. A veterinarian must be consulted if a mite infestation is suspected. A scraping of the skin and a microscopic examination of it will be necessary in order to confirm the diagnosis. Treatment will be dictated by the veterinarian and may include a new injectable drug that has proven very effective in treating mange in a wide range of animals.
Lice may also infest the hair of pet mice and rats. They are flattened, wing-less insects that suck tissue fluids (including blood) from the skin of the host. Lice are larger than mites and can usually be visualized with or without a magnifying lens. Lice are most often transmitted by direct contact with infested bedding and between infested and uninfected individuals. A veterinarian must be consulted if a louse infestation is suspected. An appropriate treatment will be recommended.
Tapeworms and pinworms are the most common intestinal parasites of pet mice and rats. They often go undetected unless the parasites are present in large numbers. Symptoms of infection may include weight loss, inactivity, lack of appetite, constipation and excessive licking and chewing of the rectal area and base of the tail. An appropriate treatment will be recommended by the veterinarian. Pinworms are especially difficult (sometimes impossible) to eliminate from mice and rats.
Transmission of these parasites to man is possible, but unlikely. It is, therefore, advisable that great care be taken when handling and disposing of rodent feces. Furthermore, contact between pet mice and rats, their feces, and young children must be limited and always supervised by adults.

Human allergies to rodents are common and the symptoms can be serious, even life-threatening. The offending allergens may be skin dander and hair or the proteins in aerosolized urine. Symptoms among allergic individuals may include runny eyes and nose, sneezing, congestion, coughing, asthma symptoms including shortness of breath and anaphylactic shock. Hives may also appear on some individuals.